Scotland has many interesting parts, from the historical architecture of cities like Edinburgh and Glasgow to the expansive rolling green hills to the awe-inspiring rugged cliffs and coast.
My plan was simple: to travel to the most northern point of the UK, John O'Groats. A point where in summer, the sun would set late into the evening, close to midnight and rise again just a few hours later, meaning there was very little darkness, if any. It was almost like the sun would dip below the horizon for a brief moment.
Most of my travels throughout the UK took place via train and the odd bus trip. I decided to hitchhike from Edinburgh up the spectacular East Coast road to John o'Groats on this occasion. The small towns and scenery are stunning.
On the way, I would detour to stay in a stunning Castle called Carbisdale Castle. At the time, the Castle was owned by the Scottish Youth Hostel Association. The cost would be a mere 10 pounds per night. The property closed in the mid-90s after falling into disrepair. It was eventually sold as a private residence and underwent extensive restoration. Now (2024), the Castle is again open to guests as accommodation at around A$24,000 per week.
Photo Credit: STV News: https://news.stv.tv/highlands-islands/haunted-highland-carbisdale-castle-with-20-bedrooms-and-private-loch-finds-new-owner
An unforgettable hitchhiking experience
We've all heard horror stories of hitchhiking, so we were always on our nerves. I'd met up with a South African traveller named Louis (Lou-ie) at the Youth Hostel, and we decided to travel together up the coast to John O'Groats. It is safer in pairs, but it is also sometimes more difficult to get a ride.
We walked the road for about an hour. Many cars passed; some stopped and asked where we were going, but there was still no lift. Then, behind us, we could hear the sound of an old bus's diesel engine. As it approached us, the bus slowed down, and the doors opened. The driver said in a very enthusiastic voice, "Jump in, guys. We'll give you a lift." Taking the first few steps onto the bus, we could see the bus was only about half full, and the guys onboard were happy to greet us. It instantly had the feeling of a boy's football weekend away. Beers, a bit of music and lots of laughs. Best of all, they were passing right by John O'Groats and could give us a lift the entire way. Louis and I had struck gold in terms of hitchhiking.
We'd travelled for some time. The guys were interested in where Louis and I came from, where we had travelled, and our plans. We laughed and joked so far. Then .... I asked, "So what do you guys do?" A very awkward silence came over the bus. A few of the guy's heads looked at each other, and again, another pause. One guy then says. "we're all in building and construction". As Louis and I took our seats, we both side-eyed each other with a gulp in our throats. I said. "Did you get a weird feeling about that?. I don't think they are in construction" To his reply, Louis said, "That was weird".
The awkwardness of that question didn't dampen the mood; we still had a great time joking and laughing, and even, at one point, the discussion turned to condoms. Well ... what a laugh. We are talking about size now, and one guy says that he can fit a condom on his head. So.... I tossed it out there with a 10-pound bet that he couldn't get a condom on his head without it breaking. Let's not forget everyone has had a few beers by now.
Well, he did indeed manage to get a condom on his head, and I coughed up the 10 pounds and got a great photo opportunity.
Our journey north would continue, and I honestly felt like I'd known these guys for years. We enjoyed their company and felt as though we had made some lifelong friends. It has undoubtedly been the highlight of my time in the UK. But, like all good things, it must come to an end. We had arrived at John O'Groats, and it was time to say goodbye to our new friends. We'd exchanged details with a few guys and collected our bags, ready to explore the most northern tip of the UK.
Just like a scene from a movie, we'd stand and wave goodbye to the guys as the bus drove off, the guys singing and shouting with arms waving out the windows. The bus would travel approx 50m and then abruptly stop. The doors open, and out comes the guy who managed to get the condom on his head. At this point, the bus had gone silent, and he jogged back to us with a smile. He'd first say, "It was great meeting you guys. We had a blast, and thanks for the laughs" Then he would pause and go on to say, "We are not in building or construction; we are all in the British Army Special Forces, and we are currently on R&R for a week and due to the heightened security risks of IRA attacks, we are not permitted to identify ourselves to anyone," He would go on to say ", The guys wanted to let you know, so please don't tell anyone" As I glanced back at the bus, all I could see was a heap of arms out the windows with thumbs up.
I've deliberately not intentionally used any of their names in this blog. This was at a time of extreme political unrest with the British presence in Northern Ireland, and the British military and police were firm targets. Security was paramount for British soldiers, even when off duty.
Sadly, this encounter was in June 1990. It would only be a matter of a few short months from this encounter, and these guys would be some of the first boots on the ground in Kuwait and Western Iraq as part of the British involvement in the Gulf War as part of Operation Granby.
Louis (pictured) and I would make it to John O'Groats and briefly watch the sun dip below the horizon. It never did get dark.
About the Author
The author of this blog, unless otherwise noted, has no affiliation with any property or business linked in this article. Unless otherwise noted, there is no free accommodation or payment from any businesses. The information contained in this blog is strictly the views of the author and not professional advice. The author of this BookDirect blog is a travel and tourism professional with over 30 years of experience in international hotel management, global travel, short-term rental management and a tourism awards judge specialising in accommodation and attractions.
Comments